Lisbon’s Alfama district is the kind of place that grabs your heart and doesn’t let go. It’s old, it’s gritty, it’s alive—cobblestone alleys twisting up hills, tiled houses leaning like they’re whispering secrets, and the faint sound of fado drifting from a bar. I spent a week here, wandering slow, letting the city unfold like a story. This guide’s for travelers who want Lisbon’s soul, not its tourist traps.

Start at Largo das Portas do Sol, a viewpoint where the Tagus River sparkles and the city’s red roofs stretch forever. Grab an espresso at a nearby café—skip the chains, find the one with wobbly tables and old men arguing about soccer. I sipped mine while sketching the view, feeling like I’d slipped into a vintage postcard. From there, dive into Alfama’s alleys. Don’t plan your route; just wander. You’ll pass tiny shops selling sardines (yes, they’re art here) and grandmas hanging laundry.

Food’s a big deal. For breakfast, hit a pastelaria for pastéis de nata—custard tarts that are crispy, creamy perfection. I found one called Pastelaria Santo António, where the tarts were warm and the owner told me stories of his childhood in Alfama. For dinner, try Tasca Zé dos Cornos, a hole-in-the-wall serving bacalhau à brás—shredded cod with eggs and potatoes. Wash it down with ginjinha, a sour cherry liqueur, from a bar called A Ginjinha. It’s tiny, crowded, and perfect.

Alfama’s crafts are pure charm. I stumbled into a market near Sé Cathedral, where vendors sold handmade tiles and leather journals. A woman named Clara let me watch her paint a tile with azulejo patterns; my attempt was a mess, but she gave me a small one as a gift. If you’re into vintage, check the Feira da Ladra flea market on Tuesdays or Saturdays. I scored a brass compass for cheap after some shy haggling—pro tip: smile and don’t take it too seriously.

For music, catch fado at Mesa de Frades, a former chapel turned bar. The singers’ voices broke my heart, and I scribbled lyrics in my notebook by candlelight. End your day at Miradouro da Senhora do Monte for a sunset that’ll leave you speechless. Alfama’s not about doing everything—it’s about feeling everything. Take it slow, get lost, and let Lisbon steal a piece of you.