Tbilisi sneaks up on you. It’s a city of contrasts—ancient churches next to Soviet concrete, cobblestone lanes leading to neon-lit bars. I arrived skeptical, expecting just another post-Soviet capital, but left smitten, my journal full of stories. This guide’s for travelers who want Tbilisi’s quirks, flavors, and hidden corners, not just its Instagram spots.

Start at the Old Town, where pastel houses lean over narrow streets. The Bridge of Peace, all glass and futuristic, feels out of place but stunning at night. I wandered to Meidan Bazaar, a tunnel market with spices, churchkhela (walnut candy strings), and vendors who love to chat. One gave me a free peach after I butchered a Georgian phrase. For history, visit Narikala Fortress—climb up (wear good shoes!) for a view of Tbilisi’s red roofs and the Kura River.

Food’s the star here. Try khachapuri at Sakhachapure No.1—boat-shaped bread stuffed with molten cheese and an egg yolk you stir in. I ate three in a week (no regrets). For dinner, head to Cafe Stamba for modern Georgian dishes like pkhali (vegetable-walnut spreads) and a glass of amber wine. Tbilisi’s wine culture is ancient; I visited a cellar where a winemaker explained qvevri—clay pots buried underground. He let me taste an unfiltered saperavi, tart and earthy.

Crafts are Tbilisi’s soul. At a workshop near Dry Bridge Market, I watched an enameler craft cloisonné jewelry, her fingers precise as she set tiny stones. My attempt was a disaster, but she gave me a small pendant anyway. The market itself is a treasure trove—vintage Soviet pins, handmade rugs, and old books. I scored a dog-eared poetry collection in Georgian I’ll never read but love anyway.

For quiet, visit Prospero’s Books, a fairytale-like bookstore with creaky floors and a garden café. I spent an afternoon there, sipping coffee and reading. Don’t skip the sulfur baths in Abanotubani—yes, they smell like eggs, but soaking in those warm pools is magic. Tbilisi’s a city that rewards slow explorers. Get lost, eat too much, and let it charm you.